Vieques is a small Puerto Rican island with some 9,000 inhabitants. Fringed by palm trees and lovely beaches, with the world's brightest bioluminescent bay and wild horses roaming everywhere, it attracts substantial numbers of tourists. For about six decades, it also served as a bombing range, military training site, and storage depot for the U.S. Navy, until its outraged residents rescued their homeland from the grip of militarism.